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Portugal

Snow in May, in Portugal

May 13, 2021 By Bobby Voicu

I like snow. Actually, I lie. I like the first snow of the year. I don’t really like it after that.

I was born in Romania, where the 4 seasons are actually quite clearly separated. This means that every year of my life it snowed during the winter (usually a lot).

Since moving to Portugal I didn’t really see too much snow. Especially with COVID, I couldn’t really travel during the winter of 2020. And to make it even more snowless, in 2019 we went to the French Pyrenees during Christmas. Because, apparently, it snows a lot there. Well, we had 15-16 degrees and lots of sun.

This means I didn’t see snow since early 2019. And yesterday, in May, I found out that somewhere in Portugal there was snow!!

Serra da Estrela is the highest point of continental Portugal, at about 1,990 meters. And that means you can get snow in April sometimes, but rarely in May. I wanted to go there in April, but a combination of good weather and lockdown meant I accepted I wouldn’t see snow this winter as well.

Not anymore! I just saw snow. Not a lot, because it already started to melt, but snow nevertheless! And 3.5 degrees Celsius when at home there were 20 degrees. What can I say? I’m happy!

And here’s a pile of rocks that probably has multiple authors. I don’t know what’s it about, but it looked nice, so I took a photo of it.

By the way, driving to the top of Serra da Estrela is quite easy, if the road is not snowed in. The road is new and really good and the scenery is spectacular. There are also ski facilities at the top and they have a webcam where you can see if there’s snow or not.

Nicolau Cafe in Lisbon

May 6, 2021 By Bobby Voicu

If you’re ever in Lisbon and you want to enjoy a good coffee, in a nice environment, go to Nicolau. We went there at the recommendation of a friend (“good food!”), but also because it is dog friendly, so our Westie was welcome, as well.

And how could it not be, when Nicolau is the dog of the owner apparently, and he has his portrait on the wall in the middle of the café? Even more, he has an entire family: Amélia (his girlfriend/wife) and Basílio (his cousin). Of course, Amélia has a café, Basílio has one as well. And they’re all in walking distance of each other, so you can visit all of them.

If you find yourself at Nicolau, try the Banoffee Lovers Pancakes (see above). You’ll thank me later.

Photos from Nicolau’s website

Serendipity

May 5, 2021 By Bobby Voicu

I was just walking today through Lisbon. I was talking (in Romanian) to my fiancé, when someone stopped next to us and said “Hey, Bobby, is that you?”. In Romanian.

I looked at the guy asking me and it took me about 10 seconds to understand who was looking at me from behind the mask. Not because I didn’t know who he was, but because he wasn’t supposed to be in a random – touristy enough – place in Portugal.

After recognizing him and finding out he just moved here a week before, we took the time to have a drink together.

At some point he asked: “What do you think this serendipitous moment is telling us?”

An interesting question, but such an unexpected meeting nevertheless.

Featured photo by Clem Onojeghuo on Unsplash

Formula1 Portuguese GP Posters

April 29, 2021 By Bobby Voicu

I didn’t know, but apparently the Formula 1 teams create posters for different Grand Prix races and, since this weekend is the Portuguese one, here are some of them.

Alfa Romeo:

Mercedes:

Ferrari:

via reddit

Portugal by Car: Cascade Poço da Broca da Barriosa

April 25, 2021 By Bobby Voicu

I love driving. While living in Romania I was part of a big online promotional campaign that took online influencers driving around Romania to see the great places in the country. It was called Rediscover Romania and I drove a lot.

Now, living in Portugal, I’m trying to do something similar, but the only “influencer” I take to these places is myself.

After being in lockdown for about 3 months (it’s April 2021 now), we finally can drive around and I looked at something close enough to be a day drive. Which is all the country, frankly, if you live in the Northern half, from Lisbon up, and you don’t want to visit the South (Algarve or Alentejo).

I wanted to go to Serra da Estrela, initially, which is the highest peak in continental Portugal, but as I was looking around on Google Maps, my eyes were drawn to something called Poço da Broca (GMaps location). When I saw that it was a nice cascade, I was sold. And the truth is it isn’t just nice, it’s quite beautiful.

Poço da Broca is a series of cascades above schist rock, on the river Alvôco. It’s close to Barriosa village, about an hour of driving from Coimbra, 2 hours from Porto and a little bit more than 3 hours from Lisbon. It actually makes even more sense if you go to some schist villages in the area, as well.

I was there during a Wednesday, on a rainy day, so there were almost no people around, but I heard that even during the peak season it’s not too busy. There’s a restaurant on location, but it was closed when I got there (again, outside of season and just out of lockdown). During the summer there’s a river beach (praia fluvial) around there, apparently, but I didn’t see any.

The place is really chill and I loved walking around, even if the weather wasn’t the great. The sounds of water falling make me happy, so maybe this has something to do with it as well.

This is the text on the tourist information sign:

The Alvôco stream is located on the Southwest flank of the Serra da Estrela Natural Park, representing one of the main tributaries of the Alva river. It flows in an embedded valley, being schist the dominant rocky material, contributing this way to a characteristic sinuous trajectory.

Downstream from the Mountain Village of Alvôco da Serra, the trajectory of the river is largely conditioned by the type of rocks through where the water flows, schist and metagraywacke, resulting in the sinuous profile from the schistosity and fracturing of the present rocks. Over time, the erosive action of water determines the formation of curves so pronounced that the stream can cross the bottleneck zone leaving the old bed as an abandoned meander. In the valley sites where the meanders of the Alvôco stream are tighter, this natural process can be accelerated by the action of the man who, through the opening of channels, diverted the course of the water to take advantage of the old bed.

Here are 2 videos (not mine). Actually, looking at these video I see I might have missed some of it, so there’s a good reason to go back.

And here’s the Google Maps location:

All photos made on an iPhone 12 Mini. What an amazing little phone!

Diminutives in Portugal (or Portugalinha?), as a Foreigner

March 28, 2021 By Bobby Voicu

I’ve been living in Portugal for the last 3 years or so. I genuinely like the country and, as a good citizen, I started to learn the language. From scratch.

While difficult, I’m lucky since Romanian, my native language, is also a Romance language and the grammar is really similar.

But the diminutives, OMG, the diminutives!!!

Portuguese people already speak really fast and it’s difficult to understand the words they speak, but they use SO MANY diminutives that I sometimes just stop making any effort to understand what they are saying.

I recently went with my car to get it serviced and, at some point, the guy asked for my “chavizinho” and I was confused as hell. “Chave” is “key”, so I thought I kinda got it, but I genuinely wasn’t sure that was what he wanted.

I’d love to have a dictionary that has both original word and the diminutive attached. You know, just to be there :)

Here’s a funny video (in Portuguese, with some English explanations) to understand how it happens.

The source of the video: these guys.

P.S.: just to get an idea of how fast Portuguese people speak and how much they “eat” vowels, this is how the word “Portugal” sounds to me when they say it: “prtgal”.

image source

Living in Portugal: Lost in Translation or Cultural Differences?

January 2, 2020 By Bobby Voicu

You can also find book recommendations on migration at the end of this blog post.

At the end of 2018 I moved from Romania, where I lived pretty much my whole life, to Portugal. They’re pretty similar cultures:

  • Both generally European (Portugal “more European” than Romania)
  • Both had a dictatorship that finished in the last 50 years
  • Both have problems with corruption (less in Portugal)
  • Both have a lot of bureaucracy
  • Latin language.

You’d think there would be no problems adapting to the Portuguese culture. And it’s true, in many ways we had no issues. I can actually speak enough Portuguese right now so I can ask for directions and mostly understand the answer. And my fiancée spoke the language quite well already.

But there are some issues I’ve never thought of. Case in point:

I say: I want central heating in the house.

They say: the house has central heating.

I mean: I want electric central heating with radiators in every room of the house and 24 degrees Celsius everywhere in the house.

They mean: We have central heating with fireplace and wood, with heating recuperator, MAYBE radiators, and 17-19 degrees in the entire house because it’s never that cold outside.

We say the same thing. We mean almost the same thing. Yet, it’s really different.

I was thinking of a completely automated heating system and being able to wear shorts and t-shirt in a house. They meant that there is a system to be used, even if not automatic, and it’s not as cold as it is outside. And yes, you might need to add another layer of clothes, but “the winter in Portugal is just 2 months and it’s not that cold anyway”.

It took me some time to understand the difference in perception.

We were using the same words, but our understanding of them was different enough to generate confusion.

The solution?

  • Ask for DETAILED information on everything. Sometimes people will look at you thinking you’re crazy, but keep in mind it’s your money at stake if you make a mistake
  • Ask often “What do you mean by X?”
  • Find someone from your country that has been living in the new country for a longer time (years, if possible) to “translate” the cultural differences. And to translate the language.
  • If the above is not available, find someone native that also speaks your language (or English). They might be capable of explaining the differences
  • Ask A LOT of questions about your chosen country. Ask everybody you meet, frankly, especially in the first year or so.

Well, this is not the perfect solution, but it is A solution. Changing countries is a difficult endeavor in itself, but the small things add quickly to the pressure and lack of comfort.

On the other hand, we were walking the dog around the neighborhood yesterday. One neighbor stopped us and invited us into his yard to give us some oranges and tangerines right from the tree. About 5kgs worth of them. The difference to Romania? If something similar happened, we would’ve left with 5kgs of apples. A little nuance in cultures, for sure, but I would’ve been happy with the apples as well.

Oh, and the photo on the top is not the view from my home, unfortunately. It’s a view from Foz do Arelho, across the Obidos Lagoon, to the Atlantic Ocean. An amazing place to visit. Just sayin’…

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